Workbench and Garage Stool Height: The Elbow Method, the Two-Height Rule and the Chart
You’ve been on your feet for three hours. The pads are swapped on one side, your lower back is louder than the impact wrench, and you’ve knelt down and stood back up so many times your knees are drafting a formal complaint. So you drag the old bar stool in from the kitchen, perch on it, and twenty minutes later you’re hunched over the bench with your feet dangling and your neck bent like a question mark.
It isn’t you. It’s the height.
Here’s the thing nobody tells you: most workbench stool height advice online is copied straight from kitchen bar stool charts. That’s exactly why so many garage stools end up as very expensive laundry racks. Measure your counter, subtract 10 to 12 inches, done. That gap is a fair thigh clearance check at a bench, but it can’t size your seat. It was built to make sure your knees fit under a countertop while you eat a sandwich. In your garage, the work isn’t always on a countertop. It’s a wheel hub 13 inches off the floor, a brake caliper, a bumper, or a carburetor on a bench that was built for standing.
Maybe you already learned this the hard way. You measured the bench, followed the guide, bought the stool. Then you sat down for a brake job and ended up perched over the wheel like a vulture, back rounded, reaching down for every bolt. You didn’t buy a bad stool. You followed a rule written for kitchens.
Your garage is different from a kitchen in another way, too. You solder at the bench in the morning, wrestle brake pads at wheel height after lunch and sand a cabinet door before dinner. No single “standard” shop stool height covers all of that.
This guide fixes it with two measurements, your elbows and the work, plus one honest truth: a working garage usually needs two seating heights. Your elbows, not your countertop, decide what they are. No “it all comes down to comfort” hand-waving. Just numbers you can measure in two minutes with a tape measure and a chair. Grab the tape. Let’s size your seat like the tool it actually is.
Quick answer: For seated bench work, start with a seat about 10 to 12 inches below your bench top, which is about 24 to 26 inches on a standard 36-inch bench. Then fine-tune with the elbow method below: a little lower for precision work. For floor-level jobs like wheels, brakes and low cabinets, use a low rolling seat in the 15 to 20 inch range.
The Quick Answer: Stool Seat Heights by Job

How tall should a garage stool be? It depends on the job. Here are starting points:
| Job | Where the work is | Starting seat height |
|---|---|---|
| Wheels, brakes, tire rotation | Hub center about 12 to 17 in off the floor | About 15 to 20 in |
| Detailing lower panels, bumpers and low cabinets | About 10 to 24 in | About 15 to 20 in |
| Desk-height hobby bench or rolling cart | 28 to 30 in | About 17 to 20.5 in |
| Bench work at a 34-inch bench | 34 in | About 20.5 to 24.5 in |
| Bench work at a 36-inch bench | 36 in | About 22.5 to 26.5 in |
| Bench work at a 38 to 42 inch bench | 38 to 42 in | About 25 to 32 in, or stand |
The one-line rule: seat height = work height minus your seated elbow height (about 9 to 10 inches for most adults), then go 2 to 4 inches lower for precision work.
So how high should a mechanic stool be? For wheel and brake work, usually 15 to 20 inches. For a standard bench, low-to-mid 20s. These are starting points, and the elbow method below shows you how to personalize them. If you already know you need a seat that moves, an adjustable garage stool is where this is heading.
Why Bar Stool Height Charts Fail in a Garage

If you’ve ever googled “what is the average height of a stool,” you got kitchen numbers. Standard chairs run about 17 to 19 inches. Counter stools sit around 24 to 26 inches. Bar stools land around 28 to 32 inches. Those are fine numbers. They’re just for the wrong room.
Credit where it’s due: the 10 to 12 inch rule is good advice for kitchens and home bars. It keeps your thighs from smashing into the underside of the counter. Every bar stool height guide uses it for a reason.
But look at what it measures. It’s a seat height vs counter height rule about leg clearance, not hand position. When you eat, your hands come up to the counter. When you work, the work stays exactly where it is, and your body has to get to it. That’s why we use the gap only as a clearance check, and let your elbows decide the final height.
A workbench is not a kitchen island, and here’s why:
- Bench heights are all over the place. Anywhere from about 28 to 42 inches, depending on who built it and for what.
- You apply force. Pushing, sanding and wrenching all demand stability. Nobody torques lug nuts at a breakfast bar.
- Tasks change all day. Fine detail one hour, heavy work the next.
- You move. Along the bench, over to the toolbox, around the car.
- The floor fights back. Concrete cracks, extension cords and metal shavings are not friendly to wheels.
- A lot of the work has no counter at all. You can’t subtract 10 inches from a wheel hub. You can’t subtract it from a bumper or a rocker panel either.
Then there’s the standing bench. Lots of garage benches are 36 to 42 inches tall because people build them for standing. The kitchen rule would push you toward a 28 to 32 inch bar-height seat, which usually means no wheels, no tray and feet dangling off the floor.
So here’s the truth. There’s no standard shop stool height. There’s only the right height for this bench, this job and this body. Knowing how to choose a shop stool starts with knowing that. That’s the real garage stool vs bar stool difference. A bar stool is furniture. A garage stool is a work tool. Size it like a tool.
What Is the Standard Workbench Height? (And Why “Standard” Is the Wrong Question)

Most pre-built benches put garage workbench height around 34 to 36 inches. Woodworking benches often sit lower, around 32 to 34 inches, so you can lean into a hand plane. Desk-height hobby benches come in around 28 to 30 inches.
But “what’s the standard workbench height” is the wrong question. The better one: how high are your elbows, and what are you doing? That’s workbench height ergonomics in a nutshell. Ergonomists set work height by task, relative to elbow height. The guidance below combines the University of Waterloo’s Centre of Research Expertise for the Prevention of Musculoskeletal Disorders (CRE-MSD standing workstation guideline) and NIOSH guidance (J. J. Keller summary of NIOSH guidance):
| Task type | Work height vs your elbow | Seated work tip |
|---|---|---|
| Precision (soldering, electronics, carb rebuilds, models, fly tying) | About 2 to 4 in above elbow height | Lower the seat, or raise the work with a riser or vise |
| Light (assembly, light repair, cleaning parts, sorting) | At elbow height to about 4 in below | Forearms roughly level with the work |
| Heavy (planing, breaking bolts loose, sanding with force) | About 4 to 6 in below elbow height, and up to 10 in below for the heaviest jobs | Stand for this one if you can |
So the ideal workbench height is the one that matches your elbows and your most common job. If you split your time, build or buy the bench for the standing job, then use an adjustable stool to fit the seated ones.
How to Choose Your Workbench Height in 3 Measurements

You need three numbers. That’s it.
- Standing elbow height. Stand in your work shoes, arms relaxed at your sides, forearms bent level. Measure from the floor to the underside of your elbow. This sets your standing work height.
- Your main task type. Precision, light or heavy? Be honest about how much time you spend on each. If 80% of your bench time is electronics, plan for precision.
- Seated elbow height. This is the number that connects stool height to bench height. The next section shows you how to measure it and use it.
And if your bench is already built? You can’t easily change the bench. You can change the seat. That’s the whole argument for an adjustable height stool.
The Elbow Method: Measure Your Elbows, Not Your Counter

Here’s the method for your seat. Three steps, two measurements, about two minutes.
- Measure your seated elbow height. Sit on any firm chair with your upper arms relaxed at your sides and your elbows bent at 90 degrees. Measure from the seat surface to the underside of your elbow. Published anthropometric tables put the average US adult at about 9.6 inches for men and 9.3 inches for women, with a real spread from roughly 7.3 to 11.6 inches between people (City University of Hong Kong, Online Anthropometry). That spread is why your buddy’s favorite stool feels wrong to you.
- Measure the work. For bench work, measure floor to bench top. For vehicle work, measure floor to the part you’ll actually touch: hub center, caliper or bumper edge.
-
Match the task. Use the task table above:
- Precision work: the work sits 2 to 4 inches above your elbow. So you lower the seat, or raise the work.
- Light work: the work sits at or just below your elbow.
- Heavy work: the work sits well below your elbow. At a bench, that usually means standing, not sitting.
The formula: Seat height = Work height − Elbow height − (0 for light work, 2 to 4 inches for precision work)
Then use the 10 to 12 inch gap as a clearance check, not a sizing rule: a flat hand or fist should still fit between your thigh and the underside of the bench.
Here’s how it plays out. Say your bench is 36 inches and your seated elbow height is 9.5 inches. On a 25-inch seat, your elbows sit at about 34.5 inches, so the bench surface is just above elbow level. That’s comfortable for light work, and you’d drop about 1 to 2 inches for precision work. The thigh gap is 11 inches, so the clearance check passes too.
Once you’re seated, run a quick posture check. Shoulders relaxed, not shrugged. Back not rounded. Feet flat on the floor or on a rest. If all three pass, you nailed it.
Worked Examples: Stool Height for a 34, 36, 38 and 40 Inch Workbench
Using a 9.5-inch average elbow height (plug in your own number):
| Bench height | Light work seat | Precision work seat |
|---|---|---|
| 34 in | About 24.5 in | About 20.5 to 22.5 in |
| 36 in | About 26.5 in | About 22.5 to 24.5 in |
| 38 in | About 28.5 in | About 24.5 to 26.5 in |
| 40 in | About 30.5 in | About 26.5 to 28.5 in |
So what’s the right stool height for 36 inch workbench setups? Around 22.5 to 26.5 inches, depending on the job, and about 24 to 26 inches for most mixed work. The stool height for 34 inch workbench setups lands around 20.5 to 24.5 inches. That’s ergonomic workbench height in practice: the stool height for workbench jobs follows your elbows, not the bench.
Here’s the honest takeaway: for benches 38 inches and up, sitting means a bar-height work stool, and most rolling garage stools top out around 24 to 25 inches. Your options are to do precision work seated and stand for the rest, or add a lower sit-down work surface.
Workbench Stool Height Chart (Garage & Shop Version)

Here’s everything above in one chart. Save it, print it, tape it to the garage wall.
| Job or bench | Work height | Suggested seat height | Stool type | Trufairs fit |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Compact car wheel | About 13 in hub (more on stands) | 15 to 18 in | Low rolling seat with tray | 400 lb version (15.7 to 20.47 in) |
| SUV wheel | About 15 in hub (more on stands) | 16 to 19 in | Low rolling seat with tray | 400 lb version |
| Truck wheel | About 16.5 in hub (more on stands) | 17 to 20 in | Low rolling seat with tray | 400 lb version |
| Lower panels, bumpers, low cabinets | About 10 to 24 in | 15 to 20 in | Low rolling seat with tray | 400 lb version |
| Desk or hobby bench, rolling cart | 28 to 30 in | 17 to 20.5 in | Low adjustable rolling stool | 400 lb version (upper range) or 350 lb version (lower range) |
| Woodworking or standard bench | 32 to 34 in | 20.5 to 24.5 in | Adjustable shop stool | 350 lb version (18.3 to 24.8 in) |
| Typical garage bench | 36 in | 22.5 to 26.5 in | Counter-height shop stool | 350 lb version, near its top setting (24.8 in) |
| Tall or standing-height bench | 38 to 42 in | 25 to 32 in | Tall shop stool with a foot ring, or stand | Not covered; stand or lower the work |
Based on a 9.5-inch average seated elbow height, and on hub heights calculated from tire diameter. Measure yours and adjust.
One more rule: above roughly 26 inches of seat height, a footrest or foot ring stops being optional. Dangling feet cut off circulation and make you hunch. A tall shop stool without one is a back-pain machine.
That’s the shop stool height chart the bar stool guides never made, because they never had to.
Vehicle Work: The Right Stool Height for Wheels, Brakes and Lower Panels

What height stool for working on cars? Start with the simple math nobody publishes: the hub center sits at about half the tire’s overall diameter.
- A 26-inch tire puts the hub about 13 inches off the ground.
- A 30-inch SUV tire puts it about 15 inches up.
- A 33-inch truck tire puts it about 16.5 inches up.
Jack stands lift it a few more inches.
At a wheel, you reach forward to the work instead of resting your forearms on a bench, so the elbow method relaxes a bit. There’s also no counter, so the 10 to 12 inch gap doesn’t apply here at all. The goal is to reach the hub with a straight back. For most people, that means the lowest comfortable seat, usually around 15 to 20 inches.
That’s why tall stools fail here. At 24 inches you’re folding over the wheel, which is exactly the posture you bought a stool to avoid. In the low vs tall mechanic stool debate, low wins at the wheel every time.
Going even lower? Rocker panels on lowered cars and exhaust work aren’t seat jobs at all. That’s creeper territory.
The Two-Height Rule: Bench Zone vs. Floor Zone

This is the part every bar stool chart misses. A real garage has two working zones, and most people only buy a seat for one.
The bench zone is seated or perched work at the bench surface. Your seat height follows the chart above, roughly 21 to 26 inches at a 34 to 36 inch bench.
The floor zone is everything below your waist: wheels, brakes, suspension, rocker panels, bumpers, detailing, low cabinets, sanding furniture legs. A tall stool is useless here, and kneeling on concrete wrecks your knees. You want a low rolling seat, roughly 15 to 20 inches, that lets you sit at the job, roll along the car and keep your tools on a tray beside you.
Here’s the range gap. Wheel work wants roughly 15 to 20 inches. Bench work wants roughly 21 to 30 inches. A gas cylinder only travels a handful of inches, so no single cylinder covers both ends comfortably. If you work on cars or furniture, you don’t need a better bench stool. You need a second seat.
So pick by your main job:
- Mostly vehicle and detailing work: choose a low-range stool.
- Mostly bench work: choose a tall-range stool.
- Truly both: consider two seats, or a low stool plus standing at the bench.
You need a floor-zone seat if:
- You kneel on flattened cardboard.
- Your “seat” is an upside-down bucket.
- Your knees hurt the next day.
- You stand up and crouch back down 20+ times per job.
Every trip to the toolbox you skip is a crouch-and-stand cycle your knees don’t pay for. A seat that rolls is a productivity tool, not a luxury.
The 2-Minute Fit Test (Do This Before You Buy Any Shop Stool)

Run this before you buy, or right now on the stool you already own.
- Thigh check: a flat hand or fist fits between your thigh and the bench underside. This is where the 10 to 12 inch gap earns its keep.
- Knee check: knees at about 90 to 100 degrees, hips level with or slightly above your knees.
- Feet check: feet flat on the floor or on a footrest. Never dangling.
- Elbow check: forearms about level with the work for light jobs. Work slightly higher than your elbows for precision.
- Posture check: shoulders relaxed, not shrugged, and back not rounded.
- Roll check: push off and roll two feet sideways. The stool should move easily, stay stable and stop when you stop.
- Range check: confirm both the minimum and maximum seat height fall inside the range you need.

That last one burns more buyers than anything else. And if your feet can’t rest flat or on a footrest, the stool is too tall, no matter what any chart says.
Adjustable vs. Fixed, Wheels vs. Glides, Back vs. Backless: What’s Worth Paying For

Here’s what’s actually worth your money.
| Feature | Best for | Watch out for | Our verdict |
|---|---|---|---|
| Adjustable (pneumatic) height | Mixed tasks, multiple users | Check the full range, both ends | Best for almost every garage |
| Fixed height | Benches over 36 in, heavy force work | Zero flexibility if you change benches | Only for one-job, tall-bench setups |
| Casters | Mobility, floor-zone work | Can drift when you push hard | Must-have for the floor zone |
| Glides | Hard pushing at a bench | You’ll be standing up to move | Best for heavy, stationary work |
| Backrest | Long seated sessions, breaks | Can get in the way of big twists | Worth it for most people |
| Backless | Leaning, twisting and swinging around a wheel | No support on long jobs | Fine for quick tasks |
| Tool tray | Keeping parts and tools close | Adds width | Huge time saver |
Adjustable vs fixed height stool? Fixed height only makes sense if you always work at the same spot. Everyone else should get an adjustable garage stool.
Pneumatic vs hydraulic shop stool? Pneumatic (a gas lift with a lever, like an office chair) adjusts while you’re sitting and is the norm. Hydraulic pump-up stools can reach higher seats but usually cost more. Manual pin or screw adjusters make you stand up to change height, which kind of defeats the point.
The Features That Matter More on a Garage Stool Than a Bar Stool

- Backrest. In the backrest vs backless shop stool debate, bar stool guides treat backs as a style choice. On a work stool you’ll sit for an hour or more, and a padded backrest gives you somewhere to rest between tasks. To be fair, backless stools are easier to swing around a wheel.
- Casters. Bigger casters roll over cracks, cords and zip ties more easily.
- Tool tray. Keeps bolts, sockets and drinks off the floor and within reach while you roll.
- Seat. Padded bucket seats beat flat round ones for long sessions, ideally with a wipe-clean surface.
- Weight capacity. It’s a safety spec, not a marketing number. You lean, push and pull while seated, so buy well above your body weight.
- Base width. A wide base resists tipping when you lean toward a wheel.
So what’s the best workbench stool? Depends on the zone: an adjustable rolling seat with a tray for the floor zone and low benches, an adjustable height stool that reaches 24 to 26 inches for a standard bench, and a tall fixed stool with a foot ring above 36 inches. For more options built for the floor zone, see our guide to the best mechanic stools for back and knee pain.
Garage Stool vs Bar Stool vs Creeper Seat: Quick Comparison

| Feature | Bar stool | Rolling garage stool | Creeper seat |
|---|---|---|---|
| Typical seat height | About 24 to 32 in | About 15 to 25 in | Low, near wheel height |
| Height adjustment | Often fixed | Pneumatic lever | Varies |
| Wheels | Rarely | Yes | Yes |
| Backrest | Sometimes | Often | Often none |
| Tool storage | No | Built-in tray | Sometimes |
| Best jobs | Eating, drinking | Wheels, brakes, detailing, bench work | Very low work |
| Works at a standing bench? | Sometimes, without wheels | Only up to about 36 in | No |
| Best pick if you split time between vehicle and bench work | ✔ A rolling garage stool with a range matched to your main job |
So what’s the best garage stool, or the best shop stool? The one whose height range matches the job you do most. And in shop stool vs creeper seat terms, the stool handles wheel height and up, while the creeper seat handles everything lower. You can compare more mechanic stools and rolling seats in our collection.
Matching the Trufairs Adjustable Rolling Garage Stool to Your Work

The Trufairs Adjustable Rolling Garage Stool comes in two versions, and the chart tells you which one is yours. Each is a pneumatic shop stool and a garage stool with tool tray built in. Both share:
- One-lever air lift that adjusts the height with no tools, even while you’re seated.
- Four 360° swivel casters for rolling along the car or the bench.
- Padded bucket seat and padded backrest with a faux leather surface, for long sessions.
- Built-in tool tray so sockets, fasteners and your phone ride along with you.
- Sturdy metal frame rated for 350 lb or 400 lb, depending on the version.
Pick your version by the chart:
- 400 lb version (low seat, 15.7 to 20.47 in): for wheel, brake and detailing work, or a 28 to 30 inch hobby bench. Larger tray base with four cup holders and tool-storage slots, plus 4-inch casters. Colors: Red, Pink, Yellow, Black, Blue and Gray. It’s the heavy duty shop stool and rolling garage stool for the floor zone.
- 350 lb version (taller seat, 18.3 to 24.8 in): for a 29 to 36 inch workbench, and for precision jobs. At its top setting it sits about 11 inches below a 36-inch bench, which passes the thigh clearance check and suits most bench work. Smaller tray base with two cup holders. Colors: Red, Blue and Black. It’s the shop stool with backrest (or mechanic stool with backrest, depending on who’s asking) built for the bench zone.

Still not sure? These scenarios are composites, not real customers:
“I mostly do wheels, brakes and detailing.” Get the 400 lb version. If your chart row says 15 to 20 inches, this is the one, and it’s a great fit for the detailer who spends hours at bumper height.
“I mostly work at a 34 to 36 inch bench.” Get the 350 lb version.
“I bought a tall stool using the kitchen rule, and it’s useless for brakes.” That’s the kitchen-guide trap. Keep the tall seat for the bench and add a 400 lb version for the wheels.
“We share the garage, and we’re 5’4” and 6’2”.” Measure both of your elbows. The range on one adjustable stool may cover you both at the bench, but check your numbers against the chart first.
The honest limit: neither version reaches a 28 to 32 inch seat. If your bench is taller than 36 inches, stand or lower your work surface, or choose a tall fixed stool with a foot ring. And if you need to stay perfectly still while pushing hard, a fixed-glide shop stool is the better tool. We’d rather tell you now than process your return later.
It ships free in the contiguous U.S. with 30-day returns, a prepaid label and no restocking fee. Check the product page for today’s price. Ready to pick yours? Shop the Adjustable Rolling Garage Stool.
3 Real Garage Setups (And the Seat Height That Fits Each)

These are typical setups, not specific customers, but you’ll probably recognize yourself in one.
Setup 1: The weekend car person
A 36-inch steel bench plus regular wheel and brake jobs. Bench zone: the 350 lb version at or near its top setting, about 24 to 25 inches. Floor zone: the 400 lb version at a low setting. One stool can’t do both. A low seat can’t reach a 36-inch bench, and a tall one can’t get you down to the hub.
Setup 2: The woodworker
A 34-inch bench, alternating between standing work (planing, sanding) and seated work (joinery, finishing). A 22 to 24 inch seat fits, so the 350 lb version covers it, and the casters let you roll between the bench and the assembly table.
Setup 3: The hobby builder
A 30-inch desk-height bench for electronics or models. You want a seat around 18 to 20 inches, so the 400 lb version at its upper settings or the 350 lb version at its lower settings. For fine detail, lower the seat a notch or raise the work with a riser or a vise.
11 Shop Stool Height Mistakes That Cause Back Pain (and Returns)

- Using the kitchen 10 to 12 inch rule for vehicle work. There’s no counter to subtract from.
- Buying the tallest stool “to be safe.” Then hunching over every wheel.
- Ignoring your own elbow height. It’s the number that personalizes everything.
- Buying by overall height, not seat height. The listed “height” might include the backrest.
- Checking only one end of the range. A stool that won’t go below 20 inches is useless at the wheel, and one that tops out at 21 inches won’t reach a 36-inch bench. Learning how to measure for a stool means checking both ends.
- Going tall with no footrest. Dangling feet mean hunching and numb legs.
- Trying to sit at a standing-height bench with a stool that can’t reach it.
- Using the wrong base. Casters where you push hard, glides where you need to roll.
- Buying small casters for a cracked or cluttered floor.
- Ignoring weight capacity. You lean and pull while seated. Leave a real margin.
- Buying one stool for two zones. The most common mistake, and it usually ends with buying a second stool anyway.
Safety Notes for Rolling Garage Stools

A rolling shop stool is a tool, so treat it like one.
- Never stand on a rolling stool to reach something. Not even for a second.
- Stay within the weight capacity for your version.
- Keep cords and hoses out of the caster path of your garage stool with wheels.
- Never work under a car held up only by a jack. Use jack stands on solid, level ground.
- Plant your feet or use a glide stool for heavy pushing. Rolling stools are safe for most light and moderate bench work.
- Take short stand-and-stretch breaks on long jobs.
Workbench & Garage Stool Height FAQs
How tall should a garage stool be?
For wheel and brake work, about 15 to 20 inches. For a 34 to 36 inch bench, about 20.5 to 26.5 inches. Use the elbow method to fine-tune.
What height stool do I need for a 36-inch workbench?
About 24 to 26 inches for most bench work, which leaves a comfortable 10 to 12 inches of thigh clearance. For precision work, go to about 22.5 to 24.5 inches. With a 9.5-inch seated elbow height, light work tops out around 26.5 inches.
What height stool for a 34-inch workbench?
About 22.5 to 24.5 inches for light work, and about 20.5 to 22.5 inches for precision work.
How high should a mechanic stool be for brake jobs?
Usually the lowest comfortable setting, around 15 to 20 inches, so you reach the hub with a straight back.
Does the 10 to 12 inch rule work in a garage?
As a thigh clearance check at a bench, yes. As a way to size your seat, no, because it ignores your elbows and the job. At a wheel, there’s no counter, so it doesn’t apply at all.
What is a good height for a workbench?
Most pre-built garage benches run 34 to 36 inches. For standing workbench height, aim at or a few inches below your elbows for light work, lower for heavy work and higher for precision.
Can I use a bar stool in my garage?
At a tall bench, maybe. At a wheel, no. It’s too high and has no wheels or tray.
Is a workbench stool with a backrest worth it?
For sessions of an hour or more, yes. Go backless if you twist, lean or swing around a wheel a lot.
Are rolling stools safe at a workbench?
Yes, for most light and moderate work. For heavy pushing, plant your feet or use a glide stool.
How tall is a tall shop stool?
Usually a 28 to 32 inch seat, for benches around 38 to 42 inches. It needs a foot ring.
What if my bench is too tall to sit at?
Stand for light and heavy work, sit only for precision work, or add a lower work surface.
Can one stool work for both bench and floor work?
Rarely well. That’s the whole point of the two-height rule.
How do I measure my seated elbow height?
Sit on a firm chair, upper arms relaxed, elbows at 90 degrees. Measure from the seat to the underside of your elbow.
Measure Your Elbows, Then Buy Your Seats
Here’s the short version. Measure your bench. Measure your elbows. Match the seat to the job.
Bar stool rules size the seat to the furniture. Your stool should be sized to your body and the work. Stop looking for the standard shop stool, because it doesn’t exist. Build a two-height garage instead: one seat for the bench zone and one for the floor zone. Your back, your knees and your Saturday will all be better for it.
When you’re ready, check the chart and choose your Trufairs Adjustable Rolling Garage Stool: the 400 lb version for wheels, brakes, detailing and the floor zone, or the 350 lb version for a standard 34 to 36 inch bench. Then go finish that brake job sitting up straight.